All Chef Should Train Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.
An Surprise Recognition
This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.
“I’m utterly surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
A Character of Simplicity
This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.
A Signature Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.
It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.
It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
Other Than the Classic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.
Outranking the Stars
Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
A Philosophy of Heart
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
A Story of Dedication
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
An Recognition for the Culture
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.